By coincidence, it turns out that even if I have a very short business trip, I find myself in an Italian restaurant. I agree, because my love for Italy is always a priority.
Restaurant Brace has a location in the old part of Copenhagen on Teglgårdstræde 8a, Brace has been open only 2.5 years ago, but during this time it won the love of all lovers of Italian cuisine in Denmark and around. Chef and co-owner Nicola Fanetti does the impossible: he has replaced Italian ingredients with Scandinavian ones. My surprise burns out. Still, how beautifully developed the restaurant business in Copenhagen, and how much more Oslo needs to work on it.
“Italians do it better,” I was convinced of it when I tried the truffle, I didn’t even try, but only felt the scent. To be honest, the restaurant has my highest recommendation for visiting Italian places in Scandinavia. The set menu is impeccable, progressive, sometimes surprising and so “buonissimo”.
Nicola Fanetti finds unexpected solutions, completely innovative. For example, I was very inspired by his appetizers, especially Carbonara Tart and Potato basket with goat cheese and Truffle. Tastes are revealed gradually, you have 3 phases to feel the full rich taste. Therefore, you do not need to rush, but you have to enjoy every bite as Italians do.
Dinner began very freshly, with a gradual increase in taste. It all started with Sander Tartare, Cucumber, Angelica Flowers and Frozen Basil Butter, which was perfectly served to the north, Basil Butter reminded me of snow.
Next was the dish that impressed me the most – Crayfish cured and roasted with Pistachio Emulsion amd 3 different Beans, I can’t even determine visually or to taste, but I really enjoyed this brilliant idea of Nicola.
The main dishes were traditional Italian, but with a restrained style of Denmark. I am very happy that I found this restaurant at the very beginning of my cooperation with Denmark, because every time I miss Italy, I will invite my Danish/Ameriacan friend Virginia to this restaurant.
Nicola cool plays with the ingredients and he is not afraid to introduce new techniques into traditional dishes, I think that it will be useful for Italian chefs to study the menu of Brace for inspiration and be bolder in their ideas.
The desserts seemed very Scandinavian to me. I have a special opinion about this part of the dinner, I probably need to understand it more, or I’m just indifferent to desserts. But the servece was amazing, it really was very aesthetically beautiful: the Panna Cotta was minimalistic, with a Norwegian character, and Milk Ice Cream with Wild Blueberries had deep rich colors and a wide range of tastes.
I am very interested in how the Italian culture is developing in northern Europe, so I am preparing an interview with Nicola, where we will talk about this in details. I think Nicola Fanetti showed good results already in 2,5 years of the restaurant’s life and I sincerely wish further development and success.